Kicks Like a Mule
The Linger Loco!
Chapter 6: Kicks Like a Mule
I open my eyes to the breathtaking view of an open road
cutting across a dry desert. Cactus plants stand tall at the
roadside and vultures glide on the warm thermals in
search of road kill. The sun burns red as it appears over the
horizon and illuminates the dry rocks. We make a pit stop
in a town called La Rioja, and I jump off the bus for a few
minutes and stretch my aching legs. It’s intensely hot on
the bus platform, and I notice many of the people climbing
aboard are deeply tanned. Some look more indigenous
than the European faces we had seen in Cordoba, Mendoza
and Buenos Aires, and I feel excited by the sensation of
heading deeper inside this magnificent country.
Arriving at the main bus terminal in Salta in the early
afternoon, we freshen up in the public toilets and head out
into the street. Observing a string of cable cars gliding up to
the top of a hill covered in lush green vegetation, we follow
Avenue San Martin alongside the large Parque San Martin
and arrive in a rather raw commercial district of the city.
Crossing a busy main road we eventually stumble across
the Hotel Munay. The guy behind reception is a quiet man
with grey hair and half moon spectacles. He quietly asks
for our passports and slides a key across the wooden
reception desk. Thanking him we head up to our room on
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the third floor. The hotel appears to have been recently
decorated and the room is spotlessly clean with an ensuite
bathroom. Chris immediately opens the shutters and
sits down on a chair in the corner of the room.
Feeling peckish and in need of a beer, we freshen up and
head back out into the bustling street where we find an
interesting little bar on the corner called Papa Panchos.
Perched on stools that look out onto the street, a cute waitress
in a pair of tightly fitting jeans and a red baseball cap
skips over to the table and takes our order. She looks
absolutely stunning with shiny black hair and petite features.
Her arms are delicately thin and her skin is a rich
bronze colour. She seems amused by our appalling
Spanish and disappears with our order. After a couple of
beers and a messy burger stuffed full of beef, egg, cheese
and ham, we stroll down a main pedestrian street and
watch a blind musician performing live on a keyboard to
an enthusiastic, smiley crowd. A fat clown shaped like a
beach ball chases an excited toddler around a rubbish bin,
and a middle-aged couple dance together in the street.
There’s a Carnival atmosphere in the air, and hailing a cab
we race through the city streets for ten minutes and arrive
in Balcarce – the bar district.
The main street is lined with colourful drinking holes
and, spying a bar on the corner with a queue of girls outside,
we decide to check it out. Stepping inside, we head
towards the surly looking girl working behind the bar and
order a couple of cocktails. Tables of smartly dressed
Argentineans fill the large room and a live band plays
national rock music on the stage.
‘This place is so cool,’ Chris grins, scanning the dance
floor.
‘Yeah, it feels like we’re at a wedding.’
‘Do you think we look a bit scruffy? Everyone’s got smart
shirts on and shoes.’
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I glance down at my jeans and at Chris’s T-shirt with
‘Free as a pissing bird’ written across the front.
‘Hmm, maybe a bit,’ I nod.
Downing our sweet tasting cocktails we decide to have
another, and order an exciting concoction that has something
to do with fire. Much to our surprise the girl making
the drinks does indeed set fire to some alcohol in a metal
cocktail shaker, and pours a variety of different spirits over
the flames. She squeals as the flames leap high into the air,
and giving it a good shake she pours the liquid into a glass.
It remains on fire and, unsure what to do, I quickly extinguish
the blue flame by pressing a beer mat over the rim.
The girl stands back with her hands on her hips and
watches Chris’s rather over the top reaction.
‘Wow!’ he grins, his eyeballs rolling around inside their
sockets. ‘Now that’s what I call a cocktail!’
The liquid is piping hot, and it packs a punch that nearly
strikes me to the ground. Chris laughs and the band on the
stage up-tempo. Spinning around on our stools, we watch
the large breasted woman in a black evening dress belt out
a catchy number that makes all the couples leap up from
their tables and hit the dance floor. Suddenly, an attractive
girl with curly hair, who is sitting further along the bar,
slides off her stool and approaches Chris. She hands him
a piece of paper and we both look in amazement, as she
spins around and wiggles her ass back to her stool. Chris’s
face is priceless.
‘Fucking hell, she just gave me her mobile number!’ he
yells, waving the piece of paper in the air.
‘You lucky bastard, how did you manage that? She’s
really fit.’
He shrugs. ‘I have absolutely no idea. I didn’t even know
she was there.’
‘Go over and talk to her.’
‘I can’t.’
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‘Why not?’
‘Because my Spanish is shit.’
‘OK, ask her to dance.’
‘I can’t dance, either,’ he replies helplessly. ‘I’ve got two
left feet and absolutely no co-ordination. I may as well be
mute and in a friggin wheelchair.’
‘Just kiss her, then, you dumb ass – anything!’
Chris shifts uncomfortably on his barstool, so I decide to
leave him to do things his own way. I mean, what’s the
fuss? It’s only a pretty girl with a fantastic body. Seconds
later, I notice a guy return to the seat next to her. It seems
pretty clear they’re together, and much to Chris’s disappointment
they start kissing passionately on the lips.
‘What the fuck, she’s got a boyfriend!’ he cries. ‘Why
would she give me her mobile number if she’s got a
boyfriend?’
‘Maybe she wants you to join them for a spit roast?’
Chris narrows his eyes. ‘Don’t be a prick, it’s got nothing
to do with food, it’s…oh, right. Sod that!’
* * *
Balcarce is booming. The pavement cafés and bars are
bursting at the seams, and the atmosphere in the air is
electric. I reach inside my back pocket and pull out the
napkin with the girl’s mobile number on it. I look at her
curly handwriting, and sigh. I consider throwing it in the
bin, but instead jab it back inside my pocket for safekeeping
and also in case I’m in a desperate situation and need
something to wipe my ass with.
We cruise along the busy street and spy a rock bar. Si’s
eyes light up and, like a man possessed, he instinctively
turns on his heels and heads straight for the door. The
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Rolling Stone’s classic ‘Jumping Jack Flash’ fills the joint
as we make our way inside. The lively venue is rammed
with young fashionable people, and a big screen near to
the bar displays Mick Jagger mincing around the stage
while Keith Richards plays the guitar and smokes a cigarette
from the corner of his mouth. Making a beeline for
the crowded bar, I struggle to grab the attention of the bartender
over the heads of the people sat on stools in front of
us. This is a serious obstacle – an obstacle you don’t need
when you’re gagging for a Johnnie Walker Black. Elbowing
everyone off their stools seems to be the only answer, but
I hold myself back and decide to wedge myself between a
couple instead. This tactical manoeuvre is a success, and I
finally order the drinks and smile apologetically to them
as I wiggle myself away from the bar. They don’t look very
happy, but it’s instantly forgotten when they return to their
heavy petting. I weave over to Si who’s stood at a table by
the big screen.
‘The Stones are amazing!’ he cries, taking his drink. ‘I’d
sell a fucking kidney on ebay to see these old boys in
action.’
‘Damn right,’ I smile. ‘I’d sell my cock and balls!’
Si frowns, and shakes his head. ‘No you wouldn’t.’
‘No, you’re right, I wouldn’t.’
‘Anyway, who’d buy them?’
‘You’d be surprised, there’re some right weirdoes out
there. Sick people who would love to get their hands on
my privates.’
‘Who exactly?’
‘Sick people like murderers, rapists and paedophiles.
They’re walking the same streets as us. They’re using the
same petrol stations and public toilets. They drink in the
same friggin pubs, for crying out loud! These people live
with us in society, I’m telling ya! It could be old Mr Jones
from number 74, it could be the baker, the butcher, the
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candlestick maker or Sheila from the opticians, the head
chef down your local village pub, the teacher, the grocery
boy, the celebrity, the local policeman and even the church
vicar.’
Si looks at me disapprovingly, like I’ve just shaved his
mullet off with a pair of sheep shears and knitted a jumper
out of it.
‘Yeah, all right, chill out!’ he cries.
‘Sorry, I read a free copy of The Daily Mail on the flight
over here. It’s infected my mind with worry and paranoia.’
‘That’s nothing new, then.’
‘Piss off!’
‘Sorry, but you know damn well never to read that newspaper.’
‘I know, I know. It’s also made me worry about interest
rates rising in the UK, affecting house prices and mortgage
rates, and then there’s my pension!’
‘You haven’t got a pension.’
‘Haven’t I?’
‘No.’
I breathe out a sigh of relief. ‘Thank god for that.’
‘Chris, shut up for a second and let’s discuss the serious
matter at hand.’
‘What serious matter?’
‘How much you would actually sell your cock and balls
for on ebay?’
‘Oh right, yeah…uh, three grand,’ I smile, snatching a figure
out of the air.
Si laughs. ‘Three grand, you’re joking? You’d actually
auction your cock and balls for only three grand?’
‘Of course, that’s shit loads.’
‘No it’s not.’
‘Yes it is. It’s three round-the-world plane tickets.’
‘You’re a fucking loser. I’d do it for a cool million.
Imagine the beautiful girls you’d shag in your penthouse
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suite with a cool million?’
We both look down at our crotches, and frown.
‘Might be a tad difficult,’ I smile.
We watch the big screen for a while. Keith, Ronnie and
Charlie are still strumming and drumming away, while
Mick is prancing around the stage with his mouth wide
open and singing the classic ‘Brown Sugar’. Someone taps
us both on the shoulder and spinning around we see a
young guy stood in front of us with spiky brown hair and
braces on his teeth.
‘My name is Leo!’ he cries, shaking our hands. ‘I love
rock ‘n’ roll! Where are you from?’
‘England,’ I reply, impressed by this guy’s confidence
and happy-go-lucky attitude.
He beams and points at the big screen. ‘England and The
Stones…I love The Stones! Welcome to Salta!’
‘Gracias,’ I reply.
‘Deeeeee nada!’ Leo cries, jumping onto a stool. ‘My
friends here later, so OK if I talk you and practice English?’
‘Sure,’ Si nods, ‘no problem.’
‘You like make sex with girls? I have four.’
‘Four?’ I cry, sounding impressed.
‘Yes, I in Salta for vacation, but go college in Tucumán -
many girls in Tucumán. You go?’
‘Maybe on our way back,’ I smile.
Leo frowns. ‘Por que? Tucumán is good. I have fun in
Tucumán. The girls like my asses!’
‘Hey Leo, do you want a drink?’
‘No please, I before drink beer in house.’
‘Are you sure? I’m going to the bar. What you having?’
‘OK, I drink beer.’
I walk over to the bar, and see the couple from before
obstructing the traffic. I decide not to disturb them this
time and take a detour to the left and step in between two
guys instead. I get the drinks and race back to the table.
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‘You’re not going to fucking believe this!’ Si cries, looking
extremely excited.
‘Why, what’s happened?’
‘Leo just told me The Stones are playing on Copacabana
Beach in Rio, and guess what?’
‘What?’
‘It’s free! They’re doing a free concert as part of their
Bigger Bang Tour.’
‘You’re kidding me?’
‘Nope, I’m being deadly serious.’
I’m so excited by the news my glass of whisky nearly
slips through my fingers and smashes on the floor. ‘The
Rolling Stones are playing live on the beach in Rio-fuckingde-
Janeiro!’
‘Yes, we have to go!’ Si yells. ‘It’s free, we’d be mad not
to.’
I nod vigorously. ‘Absolutely, it could be the last chance
to see them before they drop dead.’
We all raise our glasses and celebrate a great evening.
Leo sees his friends and quickly introduces them to us. It’s
like a scene from the movie Lock Stock. All of the guys are
smartly dressed and appear to be as cool as a cucumber. A
pretty girl runs over and kisses the tanned ringleader on
the lips. He doesn’t look shocked. He just smiles, slaps her
ass and continues to drink. Despite the great music playing
in the bar we’re not interested in fighting around barstools
for another beverage, so we drink up and make for the exit.
Leo and his friends recommend a nightclub next door
called Chaos. The queue is huge, but Leo encourages us to
be patient as tonight is supposed to be kicking. We finally
reach the door and a big bouncer hands us all a small
white card.
‘It for your drinks and entrance,’ Leo smiles. ‘Don’t lose,
OK!’
Entering the club to loud electronic music, Leo weaves
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his way through the packed crowd and waves us over to
the bar. We fight to hand over our cards to the barman; it
really is hard work trying to get a drink around here. A
relaxed country pub with a big open fire really interests
me at this moment in time. It’s a sign of getting old, but I
don’t give a fuck. A young kid knocks into my shoulder
and shouts to his friend beside me. He shouts right in my
ear and I’m close to slapping him around the back of the
head. Another kid bumps into me from the left and a girl
knocks past me on the right. It’s so hot in here! Where’s the
air-con? I order a beer and hand my white card over to a
barman. He stamps it and passes it back. Grabbing my beer
I push away from the bar and see Leo and Si waving at me
from across the club. I force a smile and wave back and try
not to look grumpy, as I nudge my way over to the guys
who seem to think setting up base miles from the bar is a
genius idea. It takes me ages to squeeze through the crowd
of young excited clubbers. I’m sweating like a pig by the
time I reach them.
‘Where you go?’ Leo shouts over the music.
‘Trying to buy a fucking drink,’ I snap.
Leo laughs. ‘You not like it here?’
‘I do like it here, it’s great!’
I force another smile and take a deep breath as a kid
bashes into my shoulder.
‘You don’t dance?’
‘Later!’ I smile, gritting my teeth.
‘I find you girl,’ Leo nods.
He disappears up a flight of stairs.
‘Hey, you OK?’ Si cries.
‘Yes, for fuck’s sake, I’m fine!’
‘What’s the matter with you?’
‘Nothing is the matter. I’m sorry, it’s just so hot and
crowded in here. Where are the exits in this place?’
Si frowns. ‘Why?’
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‘I’m sure this place is breaking the health and safety regulations
with the amount of people in a venue of this size.
They’re overcrowding!’
‘Everyone’s back for the holidays.’
‘Well, if there’s a fire we’re well and truly fried.’
‘Don’t worry.’
‘What?’
‘I said, don’t worry!’
‘Jesus, the music is so loud in here. I might have a word
with the disc jockey and get him to turn the volume down
a tad. I can’t hear myself think.’
‘Chris, please tell me you’re joking.’
‘Of course I am.’
Leo reappears and waves us up the stairs. It’s crazy to
even attempt climbing up them, but we stupidly push forward
and somehow make it the top. I can hardly see my
hands in front of me as colourful beams of light zigzag
across the crowd. Leo rocks up with a girl called Veronica,
and I can just about see her angelic features in the darkness.
The music is too loud to talk, which is good because
she doesn’t speak English. She grabs my head and starts
kissing me on the lips. This is fantastic! Her kissing style
needs a bit of work, but I’m impressed by her forwardness
and soft lips. I haven’t kissed like this for ages, well, not
since I was a kid at a roller disco.
We kiss for what seems like hours and hours, and it’s not
until I open my eyes and stop kissing, that I realise the
lights are on and half the people on the dance floor have
left the building. I peer down and see a cute angel face
looking up at me. Leo appears from nowhere and slaps a
hand on my shoulder.
‘Your brother look for you,’ he smiles.
‘Thanks, Leo.’
‘You have good night, Chris?’
‘Yeah, it’s been fun.’
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Si rocks up beside me and nods a hello to Veronica. She
smiles sweetly and drops her gaze.
‘You’ve been busy,’ he smirks.
‘Tell me about it. We’ve been kissing all night, literally
non-stop. I know the inside of her mouth better than her
shagging dentist does.’
‘Hey, guess how old she is?’ Si winks.
‘Why?’
‘Have a guess.’
‘I don’t know, twenty two?’
‘Nope.’
‘Twenty three?’
‘Nope.’
‘What is this fucking quiz time? I don’t know. In fact, I
don’t care.’
‘Try going down.’
‘Down?’
‘Yep.’
‘She must be twenty one.’
‘Nope.’
I start to feel incredibly hot. ‘Twenty?’
‘Nope.’
‘She can’t be younger than twenty!’
Si nods. ‘Yes she can.’
‘What do you mean “yes she can”?’
Leo pops his head over Veronica’s shoulder. ‘She seventeen!’
he cries.
I look at the girl and then turn to Leo. ‘You what?’
‘It’s true, she’s seventeen,’ Si laughs.
‘LEO!’ I shout. ‘What the fuck do you think you’re doing?’
He frowns. ‘Que pasa?’
‘She’s only seventeen!’
‘Yes, Veronica is my friend’s cousin.’
‘I’m thirty, dude! I’m nearly old enough to be her father.’
‘You perv,’ Si teases, swaying on his feet.
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‘Fuck you! How was I supposed to know? I wouldn’t
have kissed her if I’d known that.’
‘That’s what they all say.’
I explode with anger and shove Si quite hard. He stumbles
back and spills his drink on the floor. With a smile on
his face he hands Leo his beer.
‘Don’t do anything silly, bro, there are girls present.’
Leo stands back, excited by the promise of a brawl and
Si leaps into the air with a squeal and karate kicks me in
the chest. I fly backwards and slam hard against the wall.
It really hurts.
Leo dances around and waves his arms in the air. ‘He
kicks like a mule!’ he cries. ‘He kicks like a mule!’
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